The Essentials of Gong Fu Cha
Here in the West, we are used to a certain type of brewing called Western-style. In that style, we brew the tea leaves in either a cup or a teapot for up to four minutes, remove the leaves and then pour the liquor into cups to drink. Most people brew the leaves just once and then dispose of them.
For a different experience in the brewing and enjoyment of tea, you might want to try a Chinese brewing method called Gong Fu Cha. This term applies to a Chinese tea ceremony but not in the same style as a Japanese tea ceremony. The latter is an event where the tea master brews powdered green tea (matcha) in a very artistic and ceremonial manner to serve to guests. Gong Fu Cha is more of a method of brewing meant to bring out the best flavors in a quality tea. It can be done for just one person or a group of people.
Gong fu cha can be translated as “making tea with skill or effort.” So, in essence, it is a way of skillfully brewing tea to bring out the best flavors. In contrast to Western-style brewing, this is done by brewing a larger amount of tea leaves in a smaller amount of water for a shorter amount of time and repeating until the flavor of the tea is exhausted. According to the authors of the highly respected book Tea: History, Terroirs & Varieties, “Tasting a tea prepared in this method is both a journey and a discovery.”
History
The first mention of gong fu cha dates back to the early 17 th century in China. Historians say it was developed in the Chaozhou area of Guangdong Province, which is the origin of Phoenix oolongs. This way of brewing and drinking tea was considered the best way for this type of tea. Phoenix oolongs can turn dark and bitter with prolonged steeping but do well with repetitive short steeps. This method did not make it out of China until the mid-20 th century. It is also important to note that this is not the sole tea brewing method in China
Advantages of gong fu cha
- Each separate infusion can bring out a different and unique flavor profile. It has been described as tasting each “layer of tea.” In Western-style brewing, all the layers are combined into a single flavor profile since you steep the leaves for a longer period of time.
- It is a more cost-effective way of brewing quality tea as the repeated steepings extract every bit of flavor before you dispose of the leaves.
- If done by oneself, it is a very peaceful time spent focusing on the aromas and flavors of the tea while escaping from the busyness and stress of everyday life.
- If done with a group, it can encourage social interaction, dialogue and bonding over a love of tea.
Equipment needed for gong fu cha
The essential teaware for this type of brewing consists of the following.
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A small teapot or gaiwan.The latter looks like a small cup with a lid but no handles.
- These brewing vessels are much smaller than what Westerners are used to. Here is one recommendation for size.
- 70 ml/2.4 ounces – 1-2 people
- 100 ml/3.4 ounces – 2-4 people
- 175 ml/6 ounces – 3-5 people
- 225 ml/7.6 ounces – 4-6 people
- These brewing vessels are much smaller than what Westerners are used to. Here is one recommendation for size.
- The most popular type of teapot is called a Yixing zisha teapot. They are made from a special type of purple clay (zisha) found in the Yixing region of China. They are unglazed, which means that over time, they will develop a coating on the inside, which can contribute to the flavor of the tea. Therefore, they should only be used for one type of tea.
- A cha hai or server, which is a small pitcher or a spare pot.
- A small tasting cup, typically without a handle and averaging 30-70 ml/1-2.5 ounces in size.
- A water kettle to heat the water.
- A measuring scoop or scale for the tea.
Optional pieces of equipment include:
- Tea tray — This type of brewing traditionally involves a fair amount of excess water used to rinse and warm the teaware. A tea tray has a reservoir that catches this excess water as it is poured. This method is employed in mainland China, whereas Taiwan uses an approach that does not involve water overflow.
- Tongs – These make handling the hot, small cups easier.
- Strainer – This keeps the steeped leaves out of the liquor and the tasting cups.
- Sniffing/Aroma cup — Some will include a taller cup with a small diameter. The tea is poured first into this cup, which is better suited to appreciating the aromas and then into the tasting cup.
Procedure
- Heat the water.
- Heat the teaware by pouring hot water into the teapot, serving pitcher and tasting cups. Dispose of water. To save water, pour it from the teapot into the pitcher, then into the cups, and finally dispose of it.
- Rinse the leaves by putting them into the warm pot. Pour simmering water over them and quickly dispose of the water. Smell the aromas that are released as the leaves come into contact with the warm, moist pot. Some will use the water from this quick rinse to heat the pitcher and cups.
- Infuse the leaves by pouring more water over them. For the first infusion, infuse for about 10-30 seconds. Pour the infused liquor into the serving pitcher. Be sure to drain the pot of all water.
- Pour infused tea into the tasting cups. If using a gaiwan, place your middle finger and thumb on the outside rim of the cup. Using your index finger, tilt the lid down into the cup. Lif the gaiwan and pour through the opening. Since there are no handles, the bowl can get quite hot. That is why you should hold on to the rim. First, note the tea’s aroma and then the flavor as you taste.
- Repeat for as many infusions as the flavor lasts, increasing the infusion time slightly each time.
Five variables that affect the flavor of the tea.
- Quality of the tea. Better quality tea with unbroken leaves will lead to better flavor and a longer-lasting flavor throughout multiple brewings. So, even though it will cost more initially, it can be more cost-effective as the flavor will persist longer.
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Quantity of tea
- For the best experience, weighing the tea leaves on a scale is preferred. Use 1 gram of tea per 10-15 ml/0.5 ounces of water.
- If not using a scale, use the following recommendation.
- For rolled teas (teas that appear to be little balls in the dry state), cover the bottom of the teapot with the tea.
- For long, wiry tea leaves, start by covering the bottom and then add a bit more.
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Water temperature
- As mentioned in another blog post, not all tea should be brewed at the same temperature. Try the following recommendations.
- Green tea – 165-175°F
- Silver needles white tea & most tea made from tips – max of 185°F
- Taiwanese oolongs – 195-200°F
- Black teas, pu-erh, and dark oolongs – 200°F
- As mentioned in another blog post, not all tea should be brewed at the same temperature. Try the following recommendations.
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Timing of infusions
- The 1 st brew should be around 10-15 seconds. Some like to add another 10-15 seconds to each subsequent infusion.
- Depending on the tea, you can re-steep up to 15-20 times or until the flavor is exhausted.
Best teas for gong fu cha
Although you can try to brew any tea this way, it is best suited to oolong teas, especially the ball-shaped rolled oolongs, pu-erh teas, and black teas. Traditionally, it has been reserved for Chinese and Taiwanese loose-leaf teas.
There you have it — the essentials of gong fu cha. If you wish to experience a new way of enjoying your high-quality loose-leaf tea, try this Chinese brewing method. Come see us at English Tealeaves, and we would love to help you.